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Welcome! I'm Sven and this is a guide to my life in Australia. Join me in discovering the do's and don'ts of living down under. Like that box of crap in the bottom of your wardrobe, there's useful stuff in here. Somewhere.

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Archive: Days out

I’m on the bottom of the world, looking up on creation…

When I first moved to Australia and decided to write this blog, I envisioned something quite different to the way it has turned out. I naïvely imagined a life-long holiday full of wonderful trips and glorious sights and being able to write about them all from a sun-drenched verandah with a G&T on the go every night.  Of course, life isn’t like that: the full-time job, the break-up, the shopping for groceries and paying the bills all brought the permanent vacation to a creeping end.  The other day as I was trekking back to the supermarket for a cake ingredient I had forgotten I realised that I lived here now, and it was the same life, but in a different place.

This evening, I watched Julie & Julia and took it all back.  Not only am I famished and inspired to cook, but also to get back in control of things, starting here.  I live in Australia!  I am too lucky!  Not everyone gets this kind of chance to see this amazing place – and all the other amazing places nearby – and I should try to share it with you as best I can.  It’s easy to take it for granted – it’s far more difficult to remember how amazing things are when you see them every day.  Case in point: Sydney Tower. Gareth and were keen to go – it’s the highest observation deck in Australia – and I trotted along with them in skeptical Sydneysider fashion, wondering if the cost would be worth experience.

Sydney harbour from the Sydney Tower

The view from the top of the tower is amazing.  From the ground you forget how massive the harbour is and how it winds its way out to the ocean through the heart of the city.  You imagine the beach is miles away and the sights are too far to travel to when there are other things to be doing.  From the air you can see how wrong you are.  Seeing things from a different angle brought back the magic and made me appreciate how amazing they are, and how unlikely it is that I would ever be living here to enjoy it all.  Sure, the Tower isn’t the cheapest sight around, but it’s more fun than you think and worth a trip on a sunny day.

This week’s weather is atrocious – more like the UK in October than Australia in the spring – but next week will be gorgeous.  I plan to make the most of it and tell you all about it.  Don’t worry – all the ups and downs of a single boy in Sydney will be in here too but, man alive, life’s too short to be glum. Let’s turn that frown upside down and get on with it, shall we?

Vivid Sydney: Luminous

Sydney is one of the most beautiful cities in the world and at the moment, Vivid Sydney is turning the harbour and Rocks into an after dark wonderland, lighting up some of our most famous icons with fantastic displays. I took a wander around with my camera last Thursday and spent a couple of hours taking in the sights. If you get the chance, head down and have a look. If not, enjoy the photos.

Vivid Sydney

PS: My friend Greg built the Vivid Sydney web site, so make sure you check it out and see what you are missing.

Mardi Gras in toytown

Just one final note on the Mardi Gras: Keith Loutit is a famous photographer in Australia, and camped out all night on the roof of the Courthouse Hotel to take his trademark toytown-esque pictures of the whole event.  Enjoy the film!(The rugby lads make an entrance [bottom left] around 2:30 for a couple of seconds, but we were beaten to the cut by the tricksy AFL boys and their shirtless choreography.  Curse them!)


Mardi Gras from Keith Loutit on Vimeo.

#5: Mardi Gras

Sveny has been a bad blogger lately, partly because he has been super busy, partly because Mardi Gras totally fucked with his sleeping/eating/working routine (and we all know how much he likes a good routine) and partly because he’s been in a funk about not having a permanent job/trying to set up interviews with people for his non-permanent job.  It’s a lifestyle choice, I guess: why have one job when you can stress about not having two?  That’s the way I roll.

Anyhow, to make up for my utter shiteness at bloggity blogging, I know you are all gagging to hear about the gayest day of the year, so here is a run down of my timetable to fabulousness and beyond, where beyond involves rolling in at 4.30am pissed as a bugger with some mysterious dusty dirt all over my shoes.

9.30am: Wake up.  For some reason I decided that it was a good idea to stay up until 1.30am on Friday night watching Jerry Maguire.  Let me state for the record: that film does not improve either late at night or with subsequent viewings.  Oh, and the Deaf guy doesn’t even say “you complete me”: he signs “you make my heart whole” which is (a) even cheesier, and (b) not really proper sign language since it follows a very English structure.  But that’s not for here.  Still, waking up at 9.30am is not as bad as waking up at 9.30am with a hangover, which I avoided by not drinking very much the night before.  Yes, that means I chose to stay up and watch Jerry Maguire sober.  No, I don’t know what I was thinking, either.

11.30am: Head out to prepare the float.  Two hours after getting up James and I were dressed and ready to get our gay on.  Fortunately, our date with sticky tape and astroturf was only five minutes walk away, so we left late and still arrived early because as you know, gays are always late for everything.  A few weeks ago, James joined the Sydney Convicts – Australia’s premier gay rugby team and current holders of the Bingham Cup – so for our first Mardi Gras, we got to march with them near the front of the parade and lap it up.  Yes, we are jammy bastards, especially with the queue-jumping powers of the rugby shirts when it came to getting into the Midnight Shift.  The Convicts plan for the float this year: a mobile rugby pitch.  Eight rolls of green electrical tape and $1000-worth of astroturf later:

Ta da!  One mobile rugby pitch!

Ta da! One mobile rugby pitch!

I would like it on the record that Belly and I (don’t you love Rugby names) did the doors, bonnet and front panels, which I sure you can appreciate are the trickiest parts to cover.  Still, it looks cool, no?  We were all finished by 2.30pm, and then the big green truck was whisked away to have a massive speaker system and spotlight fitted, because it ain’t no party without no disco in the back, now is it?

2.30pm: Those of us not going to get the ute pimped up hit Dan Murphy’s (the discount liquor stroe of champions) before going home to get changed.  One hour and a bottle of cheap champagne later, I was ready to hit the town.

I made the pom poms myself!

I made the pom poms myself!

4.30pm: James and I arrived at Midnight Shift.  On the way there we were stopped by strangers who wanted to take our photo.  As sponsors of the rugby team, we got into the Shift for free and had a few drinks (not free) before cutting through the crowd and then marching down the parade route back to the start and our waiting turf-mobile.  The crowd were cheering, we were laughing and I got a text from a friend to say that he had spotted me on the Channel 9 news! 

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6.30pm: Lock down for the parade.  Everyone who is marching in the parade has to stay in the holding pen from 6.30pm until the start of the march.  Sam, Stuart and I all got busted by a marshal for breaking out to go to the toilet, but he let us back in when we told him our sorry tale about being directed to the wrong toilet by someone else.  Toilets at the Mardi Gras are an experience worth mentioning: I’ve never used an outdoor urinal in front of 20,000 other people before, but there’s not time for stage fright because there’s a queue of gays behind you who all need to toilet, like, yesterday, and since I think we pushed in the line (“we’re in the march, yeah?”) you just have to breathe deep and get on with it.  Or not so deep, actually: urinals smell.  Back at the truck we had a punch mixed up in sports bottles and enough nervous energy to keep us all occupied (“let’s have a jumping competition!”); not to mention 170-odd floats to have a look around.  The sun set at around 8pm and before we knew it, the march was off.

8.30pm: Mardi Gras march.  I have never had such fun in all my life.  The crowd were screaming, waving, shouting, dancing, you name it.  In front and behind as far as the eye could see there were lights, glitter, floats, dancing, drag, pom poms, balls, boys, girls, cameras and flashes.  The march itself was only 2.5km but it took us about an hour-and-a-half to finish, and all the way there I waved, danced, jumped and ran.  It’s so weird: people you don’t know roaring for attention, appreciation and encouragement.  If you waved at them, they hollered for you.  If you posed for them, they snapped you.  If you cheered for them, they loved you.  It’s hard to describe the energy, but by the end I just wanted to run around and do it all again.  All my photos were crap, but it was the fastest and most fun hour-and-a-half of my life.

A look back down the crowd

A look back down the crowd

10.30pm: Back to the Shift.  Being near the front, we were back in the bar before the rest of the parade had finished, and we drank and drank and drank.  The rest of the night is a little hazy after this point – there was some pool, some drinks, some dancing, some drinks, some more pool, some more drinks.  There was Donna Summer and Barbra Streisand, and more dancing.  James disappeared at midnight and never came back.  I stumbled home around 4am (ostensibly having trekked through some flowerbeds, given the state of my shoes) to find Jim having a party of his own on the balcony with a bottle of sparkling wine.  I fell into bed pretty soon after, and if I dreamed anything it wasn’t worth remembering.  What could possibly beat a day like that?

Day out: Cockatoo Island

Who? My sister-in-law, Kate, and I went together: she’s a prison-visit junkie.
Where? Cockatoo Island is a in the western end of the harbour, at the junction of the Parramatta and Lane Cove rivers.  It is the largest island in the harbour.  The only access is by ferry on the Balmain/Woolwich or Parramatta services.
Why? The island was a prison (twice), a reform school (twice) and a wartime naval base.  It’s an interesting Australian history lesson.
How much? Entrance is free (except the ferry; usual fares apply) but the audio guide costs $5.

Kate and I went on a scorching Monday morning, arriving at Cockatoo Island just around 11.30.  We took the ferry from Circular Quay (it’s a pleasant 20 minute journey) and got some good photos of the Opera House (again!) and the other side of the Harbour Bridge, as this was the first time I had been under it.  When we arrived we were grateful we had worn sensible shoes, shirts and suncream as there is precious little shade on the island and the walk takes you all over it.

We elected to pay $5 for the audio tour since entry was free, and I am grateful we did.  The island has not been open for every long and there are very few signs providing information on the buldings or the island itself.  In their defence, there are signs everywhere reminding you that the whole island is a work in progress and there are signs of work going on everywhere, so this will not be a problem for long.

The audio tour is very comprehensive and explains the history of the island and it’s various uses in chronological order without too many optional digressions (“if you want to hear more about X, press 501.  If you would like to hear more about Y, press 502″), which I find very distracting.  The route takes you all over the island, but is fairly poorly marked (although the map is easy to follow) and some of the stops were too close to one another, so you ended up standing in one spot for quite long time feeling like a bit of a dill.

The tour does give you an insight into the harsh conditions endured by virtually everyone who has ever lived on the island, and the naval history was particularly fascinating and very well preserved.  It is also interesting to see how the island has changed over time thanks to its inhabitants. You can view the photos over at flickr.

The island has a camp site, which opened on New Year’s Eve for the first time in 2008/9.  The views from the island of various points around the harbour, including the bridge, are some of the best Sydney has to offer, and the island is a good day out.  Do it early so you can sit down and enjoy a hearty lunch afterward.  And take water. Plenty of water.

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