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Welcome! I'm Sven and this is a guide to my life in Australia. Join me in discovering the do's and don'ts of living down under. Like that box of crap in the bottom of your wardrobe, there's useful stuff in here. Somewhere.

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@NikkoTW just left now. Home and in bed before 1am like a good boy :)

Naked in public again. This is getting to be a habit.

As you know this past three weeks has been Mardi Gras here in Sydney, and when I wasn’t embarrassing myself by seeming to be a stalker (that all turned out ok, by the way; Dr Lego was very sympathetic and found it highly amusing) I was reverting to type by spending extended periods of time getting naked in public. This will be my last opportunity for legally exposing myself in front of crowd for a while, but in my defence I wasn’t the only one: this time I had 5000 friends along to join in the fun. It can only mean one thing: Spencer Tunick was in town.

Anyone who has lived with me, slept with or near me, or tried to wake me up of a morning knows that it is not an easy thing to do. It’s not that I’m “not a morning person”, because I’m perfectly charming once I’m awake. It’s simply that waking up is such a chore, and going back to sleep is almost too easy, so I’m always drawn to the route of least resistance. Last Monday morning was a personal challenge for me not because I had to strip naked in front of thousands of people and a national landmark, but because I had to get up at 3am to take part. I spent 20 minutes sitting on the edge of my bed wondering if I really wanted to go. My bed was so warm and inviting and the prospect of walking to the Opera House on a crisp autumn morning before the sun rose was almost enough to put me off. Thankfully I snapped out of it and forced myself to hit the streets. I didn’t shower or do my hair though – what was the point? Who would be looking at it?

The route from my flat to the Opera House took me down Oxford Street – the gay party strip – on the biggest weekend of the Mardi Gras. It was a strange experience heading out for the day at the time I would normally be coming home, seeing people partying away or ending their night just as my day was beginning. However, as I closed in on the harbour the party atmosphere picked up, though it was an eerie excitement as everyone tried to stay quiet. I’ve mentioned before how residential the CBD is; I’m sure it was quite a sight when people opened their curtains in the morning to see 5000 naked bodies waving back at them, but at least we all did our best to let them sleep while we got ready. For the record, Circular Quay on an autumn morning at 4am is a pretty nippy place to be, and don’t let anyone tell you any different. The waiting around in the cold sea air was worth it though – the sunrise usually happens while I’m in bed so seeing it from the steps of the Opera House was a pretty rewarding experience. No time to waste though: no sooner was the sun up than the trousers were down and the most surreal couple of hours of my life began.

Spencer Tunick shoot at the Sydney Opera House

It’s difficult to explain how odd a sight 5000 naked people moving in a crowd can be. From where I was standing I had a pretty good view and I can only describe it as a swarm of nudity, like those massive clouds of starlings you see from time to time, but pink, giggly and wobbling. There was the inevitable looking at people’s bits without looking like you were looking, but after 15 minutes the novelty rather wore off and one person’s bum looked just like the next. I thought it was infinitely fascinating to see the difference between the skin on people’s faces and that on their arses. I know it sounds obvious, but seeing how weathered your face cheeks are compared to your ass cheeks really drives home the message about sunscreen. I’m never leaving home without it again. I was also reassured that, in the entire crowd there was not one person with a perfect body. Being a Mardi Gras event, I had imagined the place would be full of toned Adonises who had been in the gym since the day they were born in preparation for this moment. There wasn’t a six pack in sight. As I looked around I saw bodies of every shape and size – some fatter or thinner, saggier or drier, paler, hairer, balder or bonier – and I realised that really I’m not that bad after all. I have bits that I hate, but so does everyone else. No one is perfect. We should treasure our blemishes: they make us unique.

We all assumed our positions and did as we were told while Tunick took roll after roll of film. A squeal would ripple through the crowd whenever a breeze came in off the water, followed by the clapping sound of 10,000 hands slapping 10,000 forearms, trying to stay warm. We all laughed awkwardly when we had to lie down, unavoidably resting hands on strangers thighs or torsos, trying not to touch anything too fleshy. We talked to the people next to us, waved to friends and identified people with kooky tattoos or outrageous hair colours so we can spot ourselves in the final picture. We discussed the weather, the traffic (at 3am there wasn’t much) and whether or not we would be on tv. It was pretty run-of-the-mill, except for being completely naked, outside, and waving to commuters on their way to work.

After the exterior shots were finished, 2000 people ran into the concert hall and filled every seat, lay on the stage and packed the walkways. I wish I could say it felt odd sitting on a plastic bag in the concert hall of the Sydney Opera House naked as the day I was born, but by then it really didn’t. Tunick directed from the lighting box, a disembodied artist booming out of nowhere to sit down, stand up, move left or right or turn around. It’s hard to know what left or right is when you have no frame of reference, but we managed nonetheless. When we stood up the bags we had been given to protect the seats from our naked bums stuck to everyone’s thighs: the sound of plastic sheets ripping off 2000 naked arses simultaneously is something few people will get to enjoy. After that we assumed various poses and just as we were coming to the end, while I was draped over the chair with my foot on someone’s should and my arm in the air, I looked around the room. The entire place, floor to ceiling and every gap in between, was covered in flesh in every conceivable shape, colour, texture and condition. It was a living sculpture and it took my breath away. People may laugh and think we’re all mad for doing it, but to get a moment like that was definitely worth getting out of bed for.

Letters home: first impressions

As a cheap and easy way to keep the entries rolling As an endearing and heartfelt little category, I thought I would publish my letters home to friends and family from time to time.  (Also, I spent all day on this so it deserves as wide an audience as possible.)  I may change/omit/anonymise some details and indeed some letters will never make it here, but this is a guide to living down under, and notes home are an interesting insight into that.  Enjoy.

(PS: I used the ‘read more’ tag here – it’s 1600 words and I don’t want it cluttering up my front page and detracting from the regular content.) (more…)

Division of labour

After yesterday’s rather morose entry you will be pleased to learn that I am feeling much brighter on day two.  James and I made it through till 8pm before we both gave in.  The minute my head hit the pillow I was out like a light; I was asleep before James had finished brushing his teeth.  Fast forward to 6.30am this morning and we were both up and about like mad things house-hunting, list-making and job searching.

Greg and his lovely housemates are kindly allowing us to stay with them, and they are full of invaluable tips on Sydney living, which is great for newcomers like us.  Greg is taking us to his favourite ‘just arrived in Sydney’ restaurant tonight, and has been full of helpful hints from banking to buses.  However, rather than allowing ourselves to bask in the comfort of their welcome, we have decided to get on with finding jobs and houses straight away while we are still novel houseguests.  That way we get to come back more often – no one wants a visitor they think might never leave. On a more practical level, we need our own space sooner rather than later as our furniture arrives in three weeks and we have to have somewhere to put it.

The roles into which we have fallen look a bit like this: James finds a job, I find a house.  This suits us both: James is the one with the skills we needed to get into the country (I am simply a makeweight, de facto spouse) so its more likely he’ll find a job quicker.  I, on the other hand, am spending my day sitting in the sunshine, sipping coke and lining up viewings, or ‘inspections’, as they are intimidatingly named over here.  Two this afternoon, six more tomorrow.  Apparently we have to look at ten places before we make a decision, so after this weekend we can go for it.  How that works in a city with only 1% of its rental properties vacant at any moment is beyond me, but I’m sure I’ll learn.

Oh, and in the interests of full disclosure, I spent a couple of minutes on facebook/twitter/blogs/wikipedia, too.  Well, James would do the same.

Australia: Day One

I know it’s not an original title but I’ve been awake, by and large, for 46 hours and novelty escapes me. Today was my first day as a permanent resident in Australia.  It was sunny.  The flights (Singapore Air) were wonderful and I even managed to get some sleep, such as it was, in between movies.  The new A380 is the smoothest thing in the skies and so quiet I almost forgot I was flying.  Also, the excitement of (a) being on the top deck and (b) running up and down the stairs mid-flight hasn’t worn off yet: it was a lot of fun.

Despite all that, today has been a mixed day.  I’m still feeling a bit melancholy about leaving the UK and my old life.  I know it will wear off.  I feel like I did when I started university, like I don’t really know why I am here whilst also knowing it is the right thing to do.  James and I bought new SIM cards today to avoid paying extortionate roaming rates while we wait for our UK mobile contracts to expire, and this afternoon we viewed a flat which turned out to be a total hole.  By this time I was so tired that that shitty flat and the greasy agent became the embodiment of the whole Australian adventure and my soul just died.  James felt the same.  We agreed to snap out if it, get some rest and start again tomorrow.  Everything works out in the end: I got that degree after all and had a great time doing it.

James and I are trying to keep one another awake until a reasonable hour when we can both crash out without fear of waking up full of beans at 4am while our body clocks adjust.  It is a bizarre form of torture and quite effective.  At about nine o’clock we will allow one another finally to rest and it will be the most rewarding sleep I have ever had.  Oh, sleep; deep, dreamless, comforting sleep.  Soon we shall be together and all the wonders of the world will zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

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